As always - if you intend to paint the model, you should paint all of the parts BEFORE assembly. It's much easier that way.
The ship is built in two identical halves - so follow each instruction twice - once for each half.
First find all of the hull support parts - arrange from small to large:
Glue each part in place - being sure to coat the pins and the underside of each part to ensure maximum glue adhesion. The beam right at the point where the hull curves inwards requires two parts to be glued back-to-back for additional strength:
Set aside to let the glue harden completely:
Locate all of the row benches glue all of them together - some of them have double-width legs to fit over the double-width cross-beams:
They fit onto the ship like this - you don't need to glue them down - it's often necessary to remove them to make room for figurines - and they make nice furniture for your viking village.
Locate the four parts of each of the four oar racks and assemble them as shown. When the ship is not being rowed, oars would be placed into these racks to keep them out of the way:
Locate the parts of the prow:
Assemble as shown and glue firmly in place:
Assemble the three figureheads:
The finished figurehead slots into the prow of the ship - DO NOT glue it into place because you'll want to be able to switch to the two alternative figureheads:
The two available tails also fit into the same mount - remember that the two halves of the ship are identical:
Here is how the Eagle figurehead looks:
Here is the wolf figurehead:
...and the wolf/eagle tail:
Now let's assemble the hull sides. Before you start - tear off some foot-long strips of painter's tape and have them near at hand.
First apply glue to the two parallel parts of the hull and to the ends of the cross-braces - you need good glue coverage for strength:
Wrap at least three strips of tape around the hull sides - if you can, give the glue plenty of time to set:
Now apply glue down the curved parts - and against the remaining cross-beam ends. Don't forget to apply glue down the sides of the prow piece too.
Squash the two sides together and mummify the thing under a bunch of painter's tape! If you see the sides coming away from the deck, squash it back into place - and apply more tape.
Although we supply etched wooden shields to go down the sides of the ship - we now believe that this is a better approach. We've included a box of round metal thumb-tacks - which are the perfect size and shape for 28mm Viking shields!
Paint them as you like - then assemble the shield carrier parts as shown:
These assemblies clip onto the parallel sides of the ship without glue - and can be removed if necessary:
The two halves of the ship can now either be glued together - or left as two separate parts. Sorry - don't have a photograph - but there are two brackets that are glued back-to-back and plug in at right angles to the two hull halves to lock them together - and to hold the mast.
Assemble the mast: Firstly, us a craft knife or box-cutter to carve a shallow notche halfway along one of the two dowels:
Glue this about a centimeter (or a half inch) down from the top of the mast and covering the joint with glue, take some thread and make many wraps in a figure-8 pattern around the mast:
Glue the top edge of the sail to the horizontal spar: